Welcome to the Mongol Rally Diaries series by Benny D. These weblog posts showcase Benny D’s journeying from London to Mongolia equally component of the legendary Mongol Rally.
First hours inward Republic of Kazakhstan afterward arrival from Azerbaijan
Upon arrival inward the Caspian Sea Port of Aktau everyone was taken inward modest vans to the processing component to endure stamped into the country. This was the slow part.
Next nosotros had to instruct the papers to choose our vehicles in. The guards at the port all wore armed services fatigues in addition to carried automatic weapons in addition to made us cause got our luggage out of our vehicles for inspection. After the obligatory newspaper stamping (7 stamps inward total) in addition to bureaucratic ruddy record nosotros were eventually allow out of the auto green several hours afterward docking. Lonely Planet gives directions to a really inexpensive hotel in addition to nosotros apace discovery it.
Without whatever local linguistic communication or currency nosotros intend nosotros cause got managed to reserve 2 wooden slabs (between iii of us) covered past times a cotton fiber sheet through the landlady who is doing her best impression of a cranky Genghis Khan, inward what I cause got to tell is 1 of the creepiest, most rundown establishments I’ve always seen. Something directly out of a horror flick.
Hungry in addition to inward demand of local currency nosotros displace into the metropolis proper. After an ATM halt nosotros discovery a lovely eating theatre where girls are drinking beer (Guinness no less) from a straw in addition to the boys are smoking Hookahs. We cause got a really reasonable repast in addition to a duo of beers all of which is sky afterward eating null but campsite nutrient in addition to boat rations for the past times week.
I’m feeling practiced thus I create upward one's heed to cause got a whiskey nightcap in addition to nosotros concur to instruct a taxi dorsum to the ‘hotel’ equally Republic of Kazakhstan has a null blood alcohol bound for drivers. Once nosotros instruct into the auto green though I’m feeling crystal clear in addition to I volunteer to drive. I line out of the auto green across the laid of unbroken double lines to instruct into the correct lane to instruct home. I do this however, only equally a police push clitoris auto turns the corner in addition to forthwith his lights in addition to siren sound.
I’d similar to tell you, correct most now, I’m recollecting all the data I cause got read most driving a vehicle inward cardinal Asia. Most notably that the police push clitoris inward Republic of Kazakhstan are renowned for pulling people over in addition to fifty-fifty if you lot cause got non done anything blatantly obvious, they’ll discovery error amongst your vehicle or documents in addition to demand that you lot pay modest ‘fine’ inward social club to rectify the situation. You’re advised non to paw over your passport equally oft they’ll top away along it inward their possession until said ‘fine’ has been paid.
As calmly equally I tin I paw over my international drivers permit to the inspecting officeholder who looks it over in addition to and thus most probable admonishes me for crossing a double work inward Kazakh. I nod in addition to shrug my shoulders in addition to tell ‘sorry mate, no Kazakh’. Although I cannot sympathise a word, he makes it quite clear that I demand to move out of the vehicle in addition to become amongst him. ‘If they breath assay me I’m f0cked’ I think. But, on the brilliant side, a nighttime inward a muddied Kazakh jail jail cellphone mightiness only endure a fighting to a greater extent than comfortable in addition to likely less unsafe than the ‘hotel’ nosotros were on our means dorsum to correct now.
I’m sitting nervously inward the dorsum topographic point of a police push clitoris auto spell the outset officeholder hands my drivers permit over to his senior. He admonishes me pointing to the lines on the route in addition to asset upward 2 fingers. ‘I’m sorry’ I tell ‘first fourth dimension Kazakhstan’ in addition to ‘no Ruski’ (I don’t speak Russian).
Senior policemen pulls out a slice of newspaper that I assume indicates that he’s going to fine me in addition to pours over my documents again. After about other duo of minutes making me travail he throws my license dorsum to me in addition to indicates for me to move out of the car. H5N1 dismissive moving ridge of the paw demonstrates that I’m off the hook. Lucky Benny D!
Porky Pig inward Kyrgyzstan
This would endure the outset of to a greater extent than than a dozen encounters amongst the local constabulary during our trip, the bulk of incidents confined to random roadside stops inward Kazakhstan.
Perhaps the police push clitoris cause got been given instructions non to hustle foreigners also much inward the Pb upward to earth expo inward Astana (the brilliant novel capital) side past times side year. Perhaps they couldn’t endure bothered trying to extract a fine from us amongst the linguistic communication barrier or mayhap they only felt lamentable for us in addition to liked the hold back of our friendly in addition to respectful faces. Anyway, nosotros never paid whatever fines fifty-fifty when nosotros forgot to plough our headlights on which is compulsory at all times inward Kazakhstan.
The police push clitoris inward Kyrgyz Republic know this also in addition to that is why they were waiting for us less than 2 kilometres over the edge when nosotros outset arrived inward the country. Sitting at that topographic point inward their piffling trounce upward sometime cop car, 1 of them waves us over amongst his orangish lite stick.
Penny was driving in addition to talking amongst 4 officers for a practiced 10 minutes over at their vehicle earlier I create upward one's heed to stroll over in addition to watch what the number is. He wants to fine us $20 for having our headlights ‘on’ Penny tells me.
‘Cheeky bastard’ I intend in addition to the chubby senior officeholder sitting inward the cop auto knows what I’m thinking too. We haven’t changed whatever coin over yet in addition to he’s telling us to become to an ATM in addition to instruct the coin in addition to choose it dorsum to him. At to the lowest degree that’s what I intend he’s saying. I plough out my pockets to demonstrate him nosotros cause got no cash in addition to I remonstrate (as Penny already has) maxim that it is the law to cause got the lights on inward Republic of Kazakhstan in addition to at nowadays that nosotros cause got crossed the border, we’ll plough them off if you lot like.
The whole unintelligible conversation borders on jovial, comical, pleading seriousness. He doesn’t desire to allow us become in addition to nosotros don’t desire to pay in addition to they don’t desire to arrest us but nosotros don’t desire whatever trouble. I intend they instruct tired of trying to con us in addition to I tell to Penny ‘come on let’s go’. Senior officeholder calls me dorsum in addition to says something to me amongst a wry smile, likely along the lines of don’t allow this endure your outset impression of my country, in addition to thus he shakes my paw in addition to truly says lamentable a duo of times earlier nosotros caput off into the countryside, headlights turned off.
Speeding inward Kazakhstan
You could endure driving downward a perfectly practiced stretch of highway inward Republic of Kazakhstan when the speed bound all of a precipitous goes from 100 to seventy to xl for no apparent reason. More oft than non at that topographic point volition endure a officer waiting side past times side to his auto to moving ridge you lot downward if you lot were going also fast or had forgotten to plough your headlights on.
Me – ‘you mightiness desire to ho-hum downward a fighting Penny – at that topographic point is a speed photographic television set camera there.’
Penny – ‘I’m non speeding’.
Me – ‘It’s a fighting difficult to tell when the speedo doesn’t work’.
Young official amongst an automatic weapon slung over his shoulder says to us inward English linguistic communication ‘ do you lot know how fast you lot were going?’
Penny- ‘yes I wasn’t speeding, I was doing the limit’.
Officer- ‘you were going also fast, nosotros caught you lot amongst a camera’
Penny- ‘ no I wasn’t it must’ve been somebody else’
The officeholder examines our papers in addition to asks us where we’re from in addition to and thus says ‘okay you lot tin go’.
Me – ‘gee that was lucky, watch number 10, Penny gets off speeding.’
Penny ‘told you lot I wasn’t speeding’.
You cannot debate amongst that.
Enjoying the story? It’s non entirely over yet. Stay tuned for the Epilogue in addition to Benny’s concluding thoughts.
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