Glaciated peaks soar high higher upwards the landscape, winding gravel roads meander through pino forests on the edges of neat cliffs. Mountain passes upwards to 4700m Pb you lot into the alpine plateaus of ancient Tibet. Villages locked in
a forgotten fourth dimension be inward traditional Buddhist ideals. Yaks wander the roads freely alongside wild pigs scampering betwixt their legs.
Sprawling Buddhist monasteries climb upwards the sides of mountains, flapping prayer flags strewn across the terrain. This is the globe of the historic Tibetan Kham province.
The overland route betwixt Shangri La as well as Chengdu is a journeying different whatever other inward South West China. Here is a direct chances to experience Tibetan life without expensive as well as difficult-to-attain permits.
A part where Buddhist monks tin can walk the streets inward their flowing robes alongside far less fearfulness of existence prejodiced past times the military. Maps soundless depict lines where the former border was, as well as this expanse is deeply within it.
Even today the part tin can live on closed without alarm to unusual visitors if at that topographic point is whatever protests or sensitive issues the regime wants to hide. For all intents as well as purposes, this is Tibet, non China.
After the phenomenal trekking inward Tiger Leaping Gorge, nosotros decided to endeavour as well as tackle this route, fifty-fifty though our timing would seat us on the cease of winter.
We had no thought if the roads would live on open, as well as inward the cease it did cease upwards snowing quite a lot during our fourth dimension inward Tibet. This did piddling to damper our intuitive minds equally nosotros explored the fascinating civilisation that comes inward this gorgeous environment.
The Overland Route From Shangri La To Chengdu
The overland route from Shangri La to Chengdu volition become on to live on 1 of our favourite locomote memories of China, nosotros are sure.
The route nosotros took tin can live on shortened or lengthened, as well as plainly the to a greater extent than fourth dimension spent inward each identify would allow you lot to genuinely experience the best that Tibetan Buddhism has to offer.
This actually is the closest you lot tin can acquire to experience Tibetan civilisation inward a gratis environment.
Ladakh is a neat identify to larn to a greater extent than fifty-fifty though it’s inward India, as well as the Tibetan Autonomous Region offers a neat insight, fifty-fifty though it is heavily controlled as well as suppressed.
Honestly, if you lot desire to see Tibet, this is the route you lot demand to do!
Shangri La (Zhongdian)
The town of Zhongdian was renamed to Shangri La inward 2003 as well as marketed to live on the fabled lost metropolis from James Hilton’s 1933 novel, ‘Lost Horizon’. It is non the source metropolis to claim to live on Shangri La, as well as to live on honest others have got a ameliorate stake to the claim, but nevertheless nosotros were quite impressed alongside this city.
Our source proper experience into the Tibetan culture, Shangri La is filled alongside captivating temples as well as monasteries, prayer flags flapping inward the air current as well as well-dressed people smiling at every corner.
Home to the largest prayer wheel inward the globe (and it is BIG) at the Golden Temple, the metropolis has a uniquely spiritual ambiance, which is plainly appreciated past times the locals who endeavour to capitalize on it alongside Buddhist trinkets for sale at every corner.
Unfortunately a huge burn downward inward 2013 destroyed most of the former city, as well as equally such many of the streets have got been changed. It is slow to acquire lost here, equally fifty-fifty locals have got no thought where anything is anymore.
The Songzanlin Monastery is the biggest attraction inward the area, as well as inward our thought ghastly overpriced. At 115RMB per person, this monastery fifty-fifty has its ain visitor’s centre – a dead giveaway that the authenticity would live on lost.
Everywhere nosotros looked were monks playing on iPhones, as well as at 1 temple nosotros saw 5 monks counting literal mountains of cash.
The grounds are sprawling as well as somewhat beautiful, but if you lot are planning on going farther into Tibet, give this 1 a miss. Instead banking concern represent out the Chicken Temple upwards on a hill, as well as some of the stupas on the outskirts.
Where We Stayed
N’s Kitchen And Guest House
We got hopelessly lost trying to uncovering it on describe organisation human relationship of no locals knowing where anything is subsequently the fire, but finally nosotros got a handle of the possessor as well as he came as well as met us. (For your information, it is across the route from the Dragon Cloud Guest House.) From as well as hence on it was a splendid experience.
The identify is rattling comfortable as well as nosotros felt similar nosotros were component of the family. It has a neat location correct inward the centre of the former (now new) city, fantastic nutrient as well as lineament rooms. We would happily remain hither again, as well as again, as well as again.
Double Room With Ensuite – 130RMB
Xiangcheng
We loathe to justice towns on their source impressions, but that’s what nosotros did for this one. The drive inward was absolutely sensational, but the town itself was merely a dusty, concrete mess.
We were accosted past times enough of touts, hotel ladies who lured us into their buildings alongside the hope of inexpensive prices exclusively as well as hence to denote in 1 lawsuit nosotros agreed that the cost was ‘per person’, as well as lots of people eyeing us off suspiciously.
We admittedly exclusively stayed the 1 nighttime due to this atmosphere, soundless nosotros suspect at that topographic point would live on some beautiful hiking inward the surrounding mountains.
Where We Stayed
*Chinese Characters* Hotel
Basic but clean, this hotel was everything nosotros needed, as well as non a speckle more. There is a supermarket downstairs hence you lot tin can stock upwards on supplies for the side past times side component of the journey.
Twin Room With Ensuite – 100RMB
Shangri La To Xiangcheng Transport
Large jitney – 105RMB (8.5 Hours)
Litang
Ah Litang – our favourite metropolis along the trail. After the unfriendly ambiance of Xiangcheng, nosotros forthwith felt comfortable inward the larger city. Sitting at 4000m as well as alongside a Tibetan population hovering around 80%, this felt similar some other globe altogether.
Aged men wandered the streets spinning prayer wheels, well-dressed people greeted us alongside a chirpy ‘tashi delek’ (the Tibetan salutation) as well as despite the huge constabulary presence inward town, everyone seemed to wearable a smile.
Of course of study the existent province of affairs would much to a greater extent than complex for the Tibetan residents who alive there, but for us equally tourists, Litang was gorgeous.
This is a identify that has been steeped inward of import religious history for centuries. The tertiary Dalai Lama opened the Ganden Thubchen Choekhorling Monastery inward 1580, which is a beautiful relic overlooking the town filled alongside studious lamas as well as monks.
The seventh Dalai Lama was born inward a elementary theatre downtown, as well as today you lot tin can see the edifice past times bespeak the friendly gatekeeper – an elderly lady who lives side past times side door – to allow you lot inward (free of charge).
The Chorten Karpo on the West cease of town is a fascinating identify to pass hours witnessing as well as learning nearly Buddhist practices.
In the surrounding hills, traditional and sacred heaven brials accept place. If you lot are hence inclined, it is possible to experience 1 if you lot are at that topographic point on the correct day.
Just go along inward heed that this IS NOT Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 TOURIST ATTRACTION. You have got absolutely cipher rights to live on there. However if you lot are invited or welcomed to 1 past times a local, demonstrate the utmost respect, accept no photos of the ceremony (even if they tell it is ok) as well as stand upwards politely dorsum unless told otherwise.
This is their ancient cultural ritual. Respect it inward every way.
Where We Stayed
Peace Guest House
Run past times the gregarious ‘Longlife’ who speaks splendid English, the Peace Guest House is similar a home-away-from-home. Sitting around the living room-cum-café drinking fresh tea alongside Longlife’s identify unit of measurement is a memorable experience. He has 2 buildings, 1 laid upwards new, as well as neat Western-style facilities inward the individual rooms.
Private room alongside ensuite – 120RMB
Xiangcheng To Litang Transport
Large Bus – 71RMB (4.5 Hours)
Ganzi
Ganzi is the working capital alphabetic character of the Ganzi Prefecture as well as equally such is a lot busier than many of the other places along the route. Still it is non without its charms, as well as the markets are a wonderfully entertaining identify to pass an lx minutes or two.
The Han Temple deserves a decent amount of fourth dimension exploring, but the highlight is the Garze Monastery on the outskirts of town.
This rambling establishment has some captivating murals painted on the walls, as well as at that topographic point are enough of opportunities to run across as well as pass some fourth dimension alongside the monks who alive at that topographic point (don’t await whatever to beak English).
Where We Stayed
Mount Everest Hotel
We stayed hither the 2nd nighttime inward Ganzi, as well as it was a far ameliorate choice than our source night. The room was cleaner, the bath had a Western trend lav as well as the wifi worked fine.
Walk across the route from the jitney station towards the “Authorised For Foreigners” Hotel as well as plough right. You volition see the Mount Everest Hotel nearly 50m downward the route on your left.
Twin Room With Ensuite – 100RMB (We had to negotiate this)
“Authorised For Foreigners” Hotel
We don’t know the actual name, but this identify is straight across from the jitney station. It has a sign inward English linguistic communication that says “Authorised For Foreigners”. Pretty straight forward. It was basic, had hot H2O as well as (sporadic) wifi.
Twin Room With Ensuite – 100RMB
Litang To Ganzi Transport
Minibus – 100RMB (estimated)
Darjay Gompa
One of the largest monasteries inward the whole area, the Darjay Gompa is laid inward stunning surroundings alongside snowcapped peaks all around, scatterings of temples dotted on the hills as well as a natural hot fountain you lot tin can bathe in.
Scores of immature novice monks run around as well as play games such equally ping pong as well as basketball game when they are non inward class, as well as all the elderberry monks are friendly as well as welcoming.
Where We Stayed
Talam Khang Guest House
Run past times 3 monks who beak very basic English, this elementary invitee theatre is nearly a xv infinitesimal walk behind the monastery, as well as offers a unique accommodation choice for those who wishing to go out of the bigger towns you lot ordinarily have got to remain in.
This is a delightful direct chances to pass some fourth dimension alongside the Buddhist monks as well as larn to a greater extent than nearly their culture. If you lot can, select a Tibetan phrasebook equally they don’t beak Chinese.
Set around a large courtyard, you lot have got options of either sleeping inward a dorm, a individual room or camping ground on the grounds. The monks tin can render 3 basic meals if you lot would like, at the cost of 50RMB.
Feel similar a laugh? Read about how Jazza shat his pants inward this monastery.
Camping – 30RMB
Dorm – 40RMB
Single Room – 100RMB
Double Room – 200RMB
How To Get To Darjay Gompa
From downtown Ganzi, reverse the Hong Fu Guest House, you lot tin can acquire a shared taxi for 10RMB to the Darjay Gompa.
Tagong
Tagong is a dusty town that itself doesn’t have got a lot going for it, but inward the outlying grasslands are jewels of spectacular fashion.
Tibetan nomads wander the plateaus on horseback as well as motorbikes, the Lhagong Monastery stands tall at the base of operations of an imposing mount as well as the neighbouring hamlet is quaint as well as has a nunnery you lot tin can remain in.
Horse riding as well as trekking are all feasible options to pass your days inward Tagong, as well as tin can live on organised through Khampa Café*.
*Note – We did non produce whatever activities through Khampa Café equally the prices all of a abrupt went upwards past times 50% when nosotros inquired nearly them (120RMB per mortal for a nighttime alongside ‘nomads’, including dinner as well as breakfast).
Angela the owner, who supposedly receives rave reviews, was rattling vague as well as unconvincing nearly the tours as well as couldn’t explicate the expensive rising inward cost. She also came across equally rattling unfriendly.
We asked if the coin all went to the nomads you lot remain alongside as well as they said yes, as well as and hence announced proudly that the nomads were all Angela’s husband’s family. The whole thing smacked of a coin grab, hence nosotros decided to skip it.
However Max, the other possessor of the café, is a lovely human being as well as nosotros ended upwards spending hours drinking tea as well as chatting alongside him. They have got rooms for 100RMB (very basic alongside shared squat lav – no running H2O at all inward Winter).
Where We Stayed
Iya Drolma as well as Gayla’s Guest House
Basic yet traditional Tibetan-style invitee theatre run past times an affable as well as welcoming family.
Twin Room With Shared Bathroom – 60RMB (no running H2O inward winter).
Ganzi To Tagong Transport
Minibus – 120RMB (estimated)
Danba
Danba usually acts equally an alternative point-of-entry into the Kham province for most people from Chengdu instead of Kangding. For us, nosotros decided to see Danba to banking concern represent out Jiaju, the Tibetan hamlet 7km exterior of town, as well as the famous sentry towers farther downward the river.
Town itself wasn’t overly impressive, as well as the mighty river is existence dredged to laid upwards means for to a greater extent than hydroelectric dams.
The Tibetan hamlet was pleasant, alongside a tremendous see over the valley, which reminded us a fleck of Tiger Leaping Gorge. It didn’t experience rattling authentic, but was soundless worth the fourth dimension to go out there.
*Note – We hitch hiked our means out at that topographic point equally all the taxi drivers inward town were trying to scam us (and Chinese tourists) past times charging a fortune, or offering a gratis ride if you lot purchase your entrance ticket from them.
Surprise surprise, the entrance tickets are fake. We pointed this out to 1 Chinese pupil who roughshod for the scam as well as never checked the actual appointment on the ticket (April 2014).
It took a piddling while, but nosotros got a elevator upwards the hill. Our ride fifty-fifty drove straight through the gate without stopping, pregnant nosotros never paid for our entrance ticket.
Where We Stayed
Zhaxizhoukang Hostel
This Hostelling International-associated accommodation was overnice alongside a cheerful English-speaking manager. It is located nearly a 25 infinitesimal walk from the jitney station. Make certain you lot consume some nutrient upstairs, across the route – delicious!
Twin Room With Ensuite – 100RMB
Tagong To Danba Transport
Minibuses – Unsure of price, shouldn’t accept to a greater extent than than 3 hours.
Kangding
We merely used Kangding equally a stopover on the means to Chengdu, hence can’t actually comment on the highlights or lowlights of the town.
We went for a large walk as well as constitute the metropolis to be…underwhelming…however some of the hikes as well as trekking inward the surrounding landscape are meant to live on magnificent.
Perhaps if this is your source stopover subsequently leaving Chengdu, you lot volition live on impressed on a greater scale, but having come upwards from some of the best scenery inward Western Sichuan nosotros weren’t jumping through our pare to go out there.
Where We Stayed
We were cornered past times a friendly lady who offered us a identify to remain inward a nondescript, unappealing building. We gave it a shot as well as were pleasantly surprised at the lineament of the room itself.
Basic, but it had TV alongside English linguistic communication channels, a sensational see of the neighbour’s concrete wall as well as a kettle. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 tiny but functioning bath alongside squat lav as well as hot H2O alongside hence much pressure level it almost blew holes inward our skin. Still, nosotros were happy.
Twin Room With Ensuite – 80RMB
Chengdu
It had been almost a calendar month since nosotros were inward a proper city, the finally existence Kangding, as well as were almost lightheaded alongside excitement, although maybe that was merely because nosotros knew nosotros would see pandas.
Chengdu was a lot cleaner as well as to a greater extent than modern than nosotros had expected, as well as despite having a population of xiv million, it didn’t seem overrun alongside people.
We happily spent 3 days there, although a twain of extra days likely wouldn’t have got hurt. With to a greater extent than fourth dimension nosotros could would have got looked at doing some Chengdu tours, or heading off to some of the smaller villages around the city.
Read nearly what nosotros did inward Chengdu.
Where We Stayed
Mix Hostel
We had seen signs as well as brochures for Mix Hostel everywhere inward Yunnan as well as Sichuan, as well as seeing equally it was going to live on Jazza’s birthday, nosotros decided to give it a go.
It was 1 of the nicest hostels nosotros have got stayed in. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 neat atmosphere, basic but laid upwards clean rooms, impeccable shared bathrooms as well as the most reasonably priced bar as well as eating seat nosotros have got e'er seen inward a backpacker’s hostel.
$2-3 for a massive as well as scrumptious meal, $1 for a large beer, a gratis hotpot the nighttime nosotros had arrived as well as the best staff of anywhere nosotros had been inward China.
Only thing letting it downward was the painfully tiresome wifi as well as the mediocre gratis breakfast of 2 slices of white staff of life as well as instant coffee. But as well as hence in 1 lawsuit to a greater extent than it is free, hence who are nosotros to complain?
Twin Room With A/C And Shared Bathroom – 98RMB
Kangding To Chengdu Transport
Large Bus – 130RMB (estimated)
Other Towns To Visit
Dege
Literally the finally town you lot tin can acquire to earlier you lot cross the border into Tibet proper, this town is famous for having the Dege Buddhist Scriptures Printing House. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 beautiful traditional temple houses 140’000 printing blocks, a huge collection of cultural relics as well as a library.
Yading Nature Reserve
Unfortunately for us at that topographic point was reportedly merely likewise much snowfall to laid upwards trekking the famous ‘kora’ around 1 of the peaks possible. However Yading Nature Reserve is meant to live on 1 of the most beautiful parks inward the entire region. To acquire at that topographic point caput to Daocheng first, as well as and hence onwards.
Sertar
A huge Tibetan monastery lies inward the hills higher upwards Sertar, which is the domicile of around 40’000 monks, lamas, nuns as well as Buddhist students. Larung Gar sounds similar a magical place, as well as nosotros are bummed nosotros didn’t uncovering out nearly it soon.
Public Transport
Buses ply the routes betwixt all towns. The route weather make from perfectly paved to teeth-chattering gravel quagmires. Often times the edges of the route are non barricaded, alongside steep cliffs tumbling downward the sides.
On to a greater extent than than 1 occasion nosotros would unopen our eyes as well as pray that the driver wouldn’t careen us to our deaths. Luckily the dazzling scenery kept our minds off of our impeding doom.
There are no nighttime buses, hence your days volition to a greater extent than ofttimes than non live on taken upwards alongside staring out the window of a bus. For your best direct chances at getting a ticket, purchase 1 the twenty-four hours earlier you lot wishing to depart.
There are also hundreds of minivan drivers willing to accept you lot anywhere you lot desire (don’t worry nearly looking for them, they volition uncovering you), should the buses live on full.
Hitchhiking The Route
We did a fair fleck of hitchhiking inward this area, alongside varied success, alongside the longest distance existence nearly 200km. You are unlikely to live on left stranded anywhere, equally at that topographic point are enough of trucks as well as individual cars on the roads.
The varying success nosotros had came from people who would inquire for coin to accept us where nosotros wanted to go. This didn’t hap all the time, as well as most people did non await anything inward central for a ride, but it did hap occasionally.
On some of the to a greater extent than pop routes, such equally Ganzi to Darjay Gompa for example, individual taxis routinely accuse 10RMB per person. Therefore locals accuse the same.
No affair how many times nosotros tried to explicate alongside our phrasebook, “free ride” or “no charge”, they would non listen. We fifty-fifty had a monk give us a ride, exclusively to inquire for the same amount of coin equally the jitney when nosotros got to our destination, despite agreeing to ‘no money’ when nosotros source laid off.
Be rattling theatre nearly whether you lot are willing to pay coin earlier agreeing to a ride.
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