Welcome to the Mongol Rally Diaries series by Benny D. These weblog posts showcase Benny D’s journeying from London to Mongolia every bit business office of the legendary Mongol Rally.
Kazakh Desert Bash
I’ve never had the inclination or whatsoever skillful argue to punish a automobile similar I did piteous Marylou. The lilliputian carmine 1993 Ford Fiesta Freestyle was built for small trips about European cities or betwixt quaint lilliputian English linguistic communication villages. No incertitude this had been her life upwards until now.
When it was rolled out of the mill I bet no i who position it together e'er imagined it would i twenty-four lx minutes menstruation live hurtling across the Republic of Kazakhstan desert, its lilliputian forepart wheels spinning through sandy tracks as well as bouncing uncontrollably over dried mud as well as grassy roads that continuously dissever into a myriad of alternate pathways reaching endlessly for the horizon.
Not the life she was born for but correct straight off it was quite necessary to laid on these roads alongside a fair amount of vigour as well as speed. For one, the automobile would easily larn stuck on the smallest uphill department if I didn’t wing into it alongside a fair amount of momentum. And secondly nosotros had virtually 650 km of this punishing terrain to suffer earlier nosotros would run into whatsoever reasonably sized town as well as hopefully amend roads.
The morning time had started out good considering nosotros had helped 3 Uzbek truck drivers destination ii bottles of vodka at the lilliputian roadside café the nighttime before. Our lilliputian convoy of 4 vehicles– ourselves, the 4 Italians inward a Fiat station wagon, squad Kiwi Kite Surfers -Leon as well as Daz inward their bluish Suzuki as well as Jan–the Czech Doctor non participating inward the rally but only touring about inward his fully equipped Land Rover.
At this point, I’d similar to dot out that if it were non for the Doctor as well as the reassurance that his vehicle would live able to extricate us from whatsoever danger, there’s no agency nosotros would receive got fifty-fifty considered taking this route. The choice was 2000kms of potholed pavement that would likely live only every bit damaging as well as a lot to a greater extent than boring.
Not long after sunrise nosotros took a fairly bumpy rail through the cool morning time air southward of Bayneu as well as thence turned eastward into the unknown.
At to the lowest degree the maps nosotros had indicated a broken dotted occupation that yeah – at that topographic point was a path that goes across this desert but every bit to its status was anyone’s guess. Not long after nosotros began, a local stopped us inward his utility as well as indicated that nosotros should non choke on downward this road.
We idea maybe he was only stopping us because entirely ii of our 4 vehicles were 4 wheel drive, but when nosotros showed him on the map where nosotros wanted to choke he made us follow him to a fairly good my gravel route that took us lxx km inland as well as thence turned into tracks. From hither it started to larn a lilliputian chip to a greater extent than difficult.
I took the Pb inward the Fiesta alongside the Italians as well as thence the ii 4 past times fours behind. With the long wheelbase as well as heavy charge the Fiat initially had difficulty keeping up. After taking an choice rail volition larn stuck inward the soft sand as well as nosotros would halt as well as hold off for January to Pb them dorsum to us. This would larn a recurring subject as well as made for slow progress.
The Kiwis were on the tightest timeframe as well as clearly frustrated past times our lack of headway. Much of the fourth dimension though at that topographic point is only no choice as well as the rail is inward such piteous status that I tin entirely promise to choke every bit fast every bit 2nd gear yous volition accept me.
With minimal clearance underneath our lilliputian automobile its necessary to hold i laid of wheels on the centre of the rail as well as the other laid upwards on i side as well as when I can’t watch about the corner or over a colina I quietly pray that no vehicle is coming the other way.
Perhaps I was a chip also confident or maybe it was unavoidable but after mounting a small-scale crest Marylou virtually landed inward a massive hole as well as bounced through alongside aloud bang. Something was screeching inward scraping every bit she rolled to stop.
I idea the forepart axle had snapped as well as for certain this was the end. I inspected the underside of the vehicle as well as constitute no major damage–except that the engine mountain was broken but even thence sitting inward its bracket, albeit non quite where it should be.
We laid ourselves small-scale targets on the map as well as eventually arrived at a dot where it seemed the route would choke no more. We negotiated our agency about a large lake that I initially idea was a mirage.
From hither the tracks became total of dust but because of the searing oestrus it was necessary to leave of absence the windows at to the lowest degree partially down.
Even if the windows were upwards the automobile was even thence total of dust. Scarves wrapped across our faces to assist our respiration nosotros would drive for 50 or lx km as well as halt to hold off for the others. Sitting side past times side to the automobile inward a sparse foursquare of shade nosotros would sip lukewarm H2O as well as lick a completely melted snickers from the within of its wrapper. At i dot I was sure nosotros had lost the others.
I did non watch whatsoever clouds of dust rising from behind the vehicles somewhere out inward the desert for good over an hour. The Italians had lost the box from their roof as well as had to redistribute its contents throughout the other ii vehicles.
As the massive carmine Sun approached the horizon nosotros pulled over to laid upwards camp. I was completely exhausted, mentally as well as physically after 12 hours of wrestling as well as caressing our lilliputian machine over what amounted to less than 400 km of the most demanding province I receive got e'er driven.
Everyone was upwards earlier dawn to watch the Sun ascension upwards behind the sparse pall of pelting that was trying to attain the parched populace agency off inward the distance. Today’s initiatory of all destination would live Bozoi, what appears on the map to live a settlement alongside fuel as well as hopefully supplies.
By my calculations it’s less than 100km’s, as well as from at that topographic point it should entirely live some other 200 kilometres to the primary highway. With whatsoever luck we’ll watch some asphalt tonight. We forge on alongside huge billowing clouds of dust soaring behind us as well as the rising Sun seemingly increasing the temperature past times the minute. We all congregate at a dot where I must alter a completely shredded tire as well as larn pulled out of a high spot i time more.
‘See yous inward Bozoi’ I tell as well as this fourth dimension nosotros follow the Italians until the route splits. My map says to remain left but they choke right. Certain that all roads must eventually Pb to town, I only choke on on. Marylou takes some other hard hitting as well as when I choke to alter gears I realise nosotros receive got lost the clutch.
Bozoi – London, New York, Paris, Bozoi.
Bozoi is essentially a small-scale hamlet built about a Chinese / Republic of Kazakhstan articulation venture natural gas storage facility projection on the novel pipeline that supplies gas to the southern regions of Republic of Kazakhstan as well as through to China. Not a house frequented past times many tourists as well as I don’t intend its going to brand side past times side years Traveller Magazines hot novel destinations list.
When nosotros coil into town inward our dust covered defective machines nosotros got some pretty foreign looks. Every unmarried vehicle is a Russian made UAZ 4WD as well as where the streets aren’t covered alongside concrete slabs at that topographic point are holes every bit large every bit our car.
The town has i store as well as nosotros larn fuel as well as a mutual coldness sip as well as top upwards our jerry can. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 teenage man child buzzes about us about on his motorbike, revving it as well as trying hopelessly to assist us, our arrival clearly the highlight of his year.
The residuum of the convoy are nowhere to live seen. After an lx minutes I discovery the Doctor parked close the route to the gas plant. He informs me the others are waiting at a designated spot for us as well as he must choke as well as discovery them. Four hours afterward nosotros are reunited but nosotros receive got lost a one-half a day.
The Kiwis are actually corking to effort to brand the primary highway earlier it gets black as well as the Doctor goes alongside them. Farewell to our friends alongside the 4 wheels drives who helped us larn here. But straight off nosotros are on our own.
We accept Marilou dorsum to the fuel station as well as brand friends alongside a sort gentleman inward overalls. We sign linguistic communication that nosotros receive got no clutch as well as he begins to inspect the car. Some of the locals bring together him as well as they all start tinkering to effort to operate out what is wrong. During this fourth dimension nosotros ascertain that the route that the Kiwis as well as the Doctor receive got only taken is virtually impassible.
Although nosotros cannot communicate alongside anyone verbally its clear that nether no circumstances should nosotros effort to follow them. Instead at that topographic point is a novel route that goes eastward as well as volition convey us to the primary highway close Aralsk. This is communicated to me past times our friendly mechanic pretending to drive alongside i manus on an imaginary steering wheel as well as leisurely smoking an imaginary cigarette alongside the other–clearly indicating that the route is a slice of cake.
We eventually operate out that the master copy cylinder is ruptured as well as our entirely pick is to effort drive to the side past times side town without a clutch to watch if nosotros tin receive got it repaired there. Aralsk is less than 200kms apparently. Remittance requested past times our friendly mechanic is a bottle of Coca-Cola for his boys as well as thence he takes us into town to a small-scale restaurant.
We sit down downward at a tabular array alongside plastic tablecloths as well as cannot read anything on the carte du jour thence when asked if nosotros desire ‘something’ nosotros only tell yes. We’re really hungry. Not long after we’re tucking into the local delicacy of fried organs alongside onion as well as some stale bread. I launder it downward alongside a beer as well as non long after the entirely guy inward town who tin beak English linguistic communication arrives.
He works for the gas companionship as well as brings a few other locals along thence they tin receive got their curious questions virtually the peculiar white people translated. The gentleman is super helpful as well as reaffirms to me that the novel route towards Aralsk is indeed the entirely viable agency to larn our automobile out of here. Typical of Kazakh peoples selflessness he takes me for a 10 infinitesimal drive out of town to present me just where the route starts that I demand to accept tomorrow.
Aralsk
The entirely occupation is that he specifically tells me to follow the route all the agency straight, create non turn. The side past times side twenty-four lx minutes menstruation nosotros follow his instructions as well as after 150 km of oft corrugated but reasonably decent compact gravel route nosotros come upwards to a unmarried lane rail again.
They told me the route was skillful all the agency as well as it seems really foreign that it has degenerated thence badly. This department of route becomes really hard as well as without a clutch I tin experience the gearbox swinging about as well as bouncing alongside each bump.
Eventually nosotros attain the railway as well as realise nosotros should receive got taken a plow off towards the highway some 30kms back. There is a small-scale hamlet as well as nosotros go inward it as well as come upwards to what looks similar an abandoned railway station. I create a U-turn inward the sandy yard as well as effort to halt on a hill. Marylou stalls alongside a shudder as well as i time once to a greater extent than I proclaim that’s it. This is the lastly resting place.
We laid at this dot to pack all our holding into our backpacks as well as walk towards the highway. Some curious locals come upwards to inspect as well as give us an H2O ice mutual coldness drink. They present us the route to Aralsk as well as assist us force the automobile through the sand as well as past times some miracle she starts again. Soon after I watch an onetime Lada coming towards us on the i lane track.
I honk my horn as well as flash my lights because it volition live impossible to restart on the sand alongside no clutch, but he stays his course. I’m forced to drive upwards the embankment to allow him past times as well as i time once to a greater extent than nosotros larn out the automobile as well as give it a mighty force to coil start it as well as hold going.
After a menstruation the rail becomes a far less damaging pressed gravel route as well as eventually Marylou’s tyres transfer from the rumble of dirt to the smoothen hum of asphalt. I allow out a holler of ‘woohoo’ as well as pat her on the dash alongside affection. I experience genuine remorse for all the bad things I said virtually her as well as all the times I cursed a Ford.
This lilliputian four-cylinder forepart wheel drive sedan has only conquered a fell 800 km of desert terrain, the lastly 200 without a clutch as well as numerous other impediments as well as my admiration for her is considerably elevated.
Poor Aralsk was i time a thriving piteous town on the border of the Aral Sea – The earths 4th largest inland lake- until the Soviet regime orchestrated i of the worlds worst environmental disasters past times diverting much of her feeder rivers away from the body of body of water for cotton fiber irrigation. Since the early on 1970s the body of body of water has been i 3rd of its original size.
We banking concern stand upwards for into the towns entirely dilapidated hotel which I dubbed ‘Hotel California’ because it looked eerily unopen as well as abandoned fifty-fifty i time nosotros got inside. If entirely I knew how prophetic my words would live – ‘you tin banking concern stand upwards for out whatsoever fourth dimension yous similar but yous tin never leave.’
The pinkish walls as well as broken plumbing would live our habitation for the side past times side 5 days spell nosotros waited for a clutch cylinder to live sent upwards from Shymkent as well as for some backyard welding to live administered to Marylou.
With each passing twenty-four lx minutes menstruation nosotros are losing valuable fourth dimension from our schedule. We had planned to encompass about 800kms per twenty-four lx minutes menstruation thence past times the 4th twenty-four lx minutes menstruation inward Aralsk nosotros were to a greater extent than than 3000kms behind as well as starting fourth dimension to realise that our goal of reaching the Mongolian uppercase was tardily becoming unobtainable.
To farther deter us, the Italians arrived the twenty-four lx minutes menstruation after us as well as from their data it seemed that the initiatory of all teams had reached the Mongolian border entirely to live told that it is straight off compulsory to pay a deposit equal to the import taxation on the vehicle- the United States of America $6000 inward i case- earlier they’d live permitted to go inward the country.
One squad had evidently complied entirely to live given the run about past times border officials when they exited the province as well as asked how to larn their deposit back.
After a couplet of caviar as well as vodka sessions as well as some shaver repairs to the Fiat the Italians struck out for Russian Federation whilst nosotros remained stranded inward Aralsk alongside zilch to create but annoy the daughter at the local café whilst catching all of Kazakhstan’s Rio Olympics highlights reel over as well as over to the soundtrack of an ex wrestler turned key Asian gangster rapper.
Late on the 5th twenty-four lx minutes menstruation our mechanic picked us upwards as well as took us to his garage. We paid him the amount nosotros had agreed upon through a mediator as well as collected Marylou without e'er beingness able to telephone substitution a unmarried discussion alongside our repairman, but nosotros warmly shook hands as well as I’m sure he wished us luck.
Apparently at that topographic point is a conservation programme to restore the waters to the Aral sea as well as provide its lilliputian port town into a seaside hamlet i time more. And although the residents are happy enough, some locals understandably experience a sure flat of animosity towards tourists who come upwards to survey their misfortune.
In full general though, similar most Kazakhs, they cheerily brand the best of what they’ve got, but I intend if I had to remain at that topographic point for i to a greater extent than day, out of sheer boredom as well as frustration I was going to implode.
Sumber https://www.creditkarma.comEnjoying the story? Stay tuned for Benny’s adventures inward the 5th calendar week of the Mongol Rally as he travels alongside Penny into Kyrgyz Republic as well as dorsum out again
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