The Ultimate Conduct To Travelling The Pamir Highway Inwards Tajikistan

The ultimate guide to taking a route trip on the “roof of the world” – the Pamir Highway.

Basketball-sized stones rained downwardly on us from the roadside cliffs above. The globe shook violently, as well as the audio of exploding dynamite echoed downwardly the valley.

We stopped inward our tracks as well as stared fearfully across the narrow Pamir River. 30m from us was Afghanistan’s Badakhshan province, which was currently nether the assail of Taliban rebels.

We looked at Mohammed as well as waited for his instructions. Our guide only laughed. “The Afghans are edifice a road.”

The Pamir Highway is 1 of the world’s greatest route trips. Unofficially starting inward Mazar-e-Sharif inward Transitional Islamic State of Afghanistan as well as unofficially ending inward Osh inward Kyrgyzstan, this captivating route was in 1 lawsuit component of the historic Silk Road.

Weaving betwixt soaring mountains as well as along sprawling desert, the trek that today makes upwardly the bulk of people’s exploration connects Osh to Khorog, a modest town inward the pump of the Pamir Mountains.

Highway M41 rises over the 2nd highest border crossing inward Blue Planet as well as hits the border of Tajikstan as well as Transitional Islamic State of Afghanistan before cutting inward on a direct route to Khorog.

At this betoken most people proceed along the border as well as into the infamous Wakhan Valley, flanked past times the Pamir Mountains on 1 side, as well as the Hindu Kush on the other.

BREAKING NEWS – We receive got exactly launched our official Tajikistan as well as the Pamir Highway Tour for 2019! Sign upwardly today.

No images or stories tin fix y'all for exactly how beautiful the Wakhan Corridor is. For as many days as y'all aid to choose y'all traverse the fine describe betwixt 2 misunderstood nations. T

ajikistan is to a greater extent than remembered for its civil state of war as well as as a major heroin merchandise route than anything else. The problems of Transitional Islamic State of Afghanistan are well-documented as well as oftentimes overstated.

Still inward this narrow passage all 1 tin think nearly is how surreal its scenery is.

We spent 7 days travelling along the Pamir Highway inward September 2015, renting a 4×4 inward Osh alongside 2 other travellers. This is our route, tips as well as stories from our amazing route trip along the roof of the world.

Getting Tajikistan Visa And GBAO Permit

When nosotros travelled through Tajikistan nosotros had to acquire a visa inward advance. In add-on to this if y'all desire to move along the Pamir Highway y'all must also acquire a permit for the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast (GBAO) region.

We did this at the diplomatic mission inward Bishkek inward less than a twenty-four hours for $62 ($60 for our 45-day double entry Tajik visa, as well as $2 for our GBAO permit for the same length of time).

The ultimate guide to taking a route trip on the The Ultimate Guide to Travelling the Pamir Highway inward Tajikistan — Us alongside our Tajikistan visa as well as GBAO permit exterior the Tajik diplomatic mission inward Bishkek.

However nosotros at in 1 lawsuit receive got skillful news! Most people tin at in 1 lawsuit obtain an e-visa for Tajikistan, including the GBAO permit! The cost is US$70 for a 45-day unmarried entry visa that tin live used at all border crossings as well as international airports.

Click hither to apply for your Tajikistan e-visa.

Note: If y'all desire a double entry visa (to move into Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor for example) y'all withal demand to apply at the embassy. We recommend the 1 inward Bishkek.

How To Travel The Pamir Highway

There are a twosome of ways to move the Pamir Highway, as well as all of them receive got their ups as well as downs. It genuinely depends on your move mode as well as budget.

BIG UPDATE – We originally used Osh Guesthouse to bulk our 4×4 Pamir Highway Tour, but during our latest trip to Kyrgyz Republic talking to tourism directors nosotros were informed nearly a novel fellowship which has ameliorate vehicles, experienced drivers as well as tin organise a perfect itinerary. In fact Osh Guesthouse approached them this yr to partner together, they are that good.

For that argue nosotros at in 1 lawsuit recommend y'all to acquire inward contact alongside Talant from Visit Alay to bulk your trip along the Pamir Highway. He speaks perfect English linguistic communication as well as is passionate nearly delivering a keen experience. He has also been trained past times USAID inward tourism production development, which is the scheme nosotros worked alongside inward 2016 as well as 2017 inward Kyrgyzstan.

You tin pre-book the vehicles as well as drivers at in 1 lawsuit before y'all acquire inward in Bishkek, Osh or Dushanbe, which saves a lot of headache.

Rent H5N1 4×4

This is the alternative nosotros went alongside as well as recommend. Having your ain carry as well as driver allows y'all to go at your ain pace, halt for photos as well as breaks as well as receive got a fleck of comfort as well.

We organised our 4×4 rental from Osh Guesthouse inward Osh, Kyrgyzstan. This identify has go quite famous for helping travellers innovation their Pamir Highway route trip, as well as the possessor is friendly as well as willing to supply assistance.

He also speaks keen English linguistic communication as well as has all the connections sorted, hence even if y'all aren’t staying at that spot it’s worth dropping past times to speak to the owner.

When renting a 4×4 y'all volition live charged per kilometre. This sounds pretty crazy, as well as to live honest it is. But that’s exactly how it industrial plant downwardly here. You also pay a modest daily stipend for your driver.

You volition innovation out your route (distances are already known) as well as whatever side trips y'all desire to choose inward advance. Any additional kilometres driven volition live charged extra, as well as must live paid for inward cash straight to the driver.

You must also pay for the driver to render to Osh, charged at a lower charge per unit of measurement if y'all wishing to go out inward Khorog or Dushanbe (unless he happens to live from Khorog or Dushanbe).

If y'all don’t receive got a grouping of 4 people, we recommend putting your squall on the board inward Osh Guesthouse maxim y'all are looking for extra people to bring together y'all on the Pamir Highway. This volition aid hold your costs down. You tin also practice a telephone phone out on the Caravanistan forum.

One of the guys who nosotros travelled alongside had genuinely been inward Osh for a calendar week already waiting to detect people to bring together him on the trip.

Unfortunately every fourth dimension a grouping came inward they were already a 4, hence he had to bide his fourth dimension until he could detect to a greater extent than travellers.

This isn’t ever the norm, but something to hold inward hear if y'all are showing upwardly inward Osh as well as await at that spot to live hundreds of people to confine inward with.

Of course of study if your budget allows y'all tin go past times yourself or as a 2 or 3. This is totally upwardly to you.

Public Transport

This is genuinely 1 of the worst ways to move the Pamir Highway, but completely doable if on a tight budget.

Transport isn’t comfortable or regular from Osh to Khorog, as well as y'all tin await to pass a lot of hours crammed into a dilapidated marshrutka bouncing over horrible roads staring out of a closed, muddied window. But it’s all component of the adventure, right?

Public carry on the Pamir Highway is definitely possible if you’re to a greater extent than interested inward the scenery exterior the window as opposed to the side adventures that tin live had along the way.

You tin acquire a minivan from Osh to Murghab inward 1 day, as well as hence choose local rides into the Wakhan Corridor. However if y'all practice this nosotros highly recommend y'all carve upwardly the trip from Osh to Murghab into 2 days, alongside a nighttime inward Sary Tash, due to the huge rising inward elevation.

It is really possible to acquire height sickness, as you’ll live going from around 1000m upwardly to 4655m inward 1 day.

Hitchhiking The Pamir Highway

Absolutely doable, as well as nosotros met quite a few people hitchhiking. One thing to hold inward hear is that in 1 lawsuit y'all acquire inward the Wakhan Valley most of the traffic volition live from people who receive got rented vehicles, tours or shared taxis – non the sort of people who volition pick upwardly some hitchhikers for free

That existence said alongside patience as well as persistence y'all tin detect rides to acquire y'all hitchhiking the Pamir Highway as well as Wakhan Valley.

Self-Drive

If y'all receive got your ain auto or motorcycle self-driving the Pamir Highway is belike the absolute best experience y'all tin have!

The roads are horrible as well as the going is slow, but having the fourth dimension to go at your ain footstep is something y'all volition genuinely relish.

Obviously the chances of picking upwardly a decent auto or motorcycle inward Central Asia isn’t huge, hence if you’re considering this alternative y'all belike volition live looking at convey your ain vehicle from Europe.

Cycle

This is it – the Holy Grail for cycle tourists. The 2nd highest international route inward Blue Planet as well as some of the most challenging as well as beautiful scenery imaginable.

We lost count of the issue of cyclists nosotros saw peddling the Pamir Highway, as well as almost all nosotros had met later on they had completed it said it was 1 of the best experiences of their lives.

We are non cycle tourists, hence can’t give advice on this. But definitely banking concern check out Crazy Guy On H5N1 Bike for some keen tips nearly it.

Group Tour

This is the most expensive alternative for travelling the Pamir Highway, but it powerfulness also live the best (depending on your betoken of view).

There are quite a few companies that offering Pamir Highway tours, as well as these are all inward excess of a few grand dollars. The primary benefits are y'all acquire a newer, comfortable as well as reliable vehicle, an English-speaking guide as well as all the logistics are covered for you, hence y'all tin literally exactly focus on taking epic photos as well as soaking upwardly the culture.

If it’s inward your budget or you’re the sort of mortal who doesn’t similar landing inward a unusual province without everything pre-planned a grouping tour on the Pamir Highway is a skillful choice.

But inward our experience you tin practice it much, much cheaper as well as acquire the exact same experience past times doing it yourself.

Day 1 – Osh To Sary Moghul

Starting our seven-day adventure from the Kyrgyz urban heart as well as soul of Osh, our driver Mohammed picked our grouping of 4 upwardly inward his Mitsubishi Pajero as well as headed towards the Tajikistan border.

It exclusively took a few hours from Osh before the landscape changed from craggy fields to steep alpine gorges. The famed Pamir Mountains began to rising all around us; speckled at first, hence gradually becoming to a greater extent than dramatic.

At the border town of Sary Tash, where 1 route leads to China as well as the other to Tajikistan, nosotros took a detour as well as instead stopped off inward Sary Moghul for the night.

Peak Lenin stood 7134m tall inward the distance, its permanent snow-capped summit looking similar a H2O icon inward the afternoon sun.

Mohammed dropped us at the CBT Guesthouse as well as nosotros wasted no fourth dimension inward exploring the rugged Soviet-esque village.

Despite existence a pop stopover for trekkers as well as alpinist who wishing to summit Peak Lenin, our presence generated an excited involvement alongside the immature community.

Kids as well as 4dukts alike would telephone phone our greetings from their windows as well as men would halt to inquire us where nosotros were from.

Passing a game of football game betwixt some local children, nosotros were eagerly recruited as well as took component inward a 30-minute fit inward a dirt yard.

Abandoned cars as well as trailers were scattered throughout the hamlet – a sight that would go mutual along the Pamir Highway.

Before nighttime roughshod nosotros returned to the guesthouse for a large vegetarian repast as well as roughshod asleep on the floor, surrounded past times other travellers as well as trekkers exactly as thrilled at existence inward such a beautiful component of the country.

Things To Do In Sary Moghul

There aren’t a lot of things to practice inward Sary Moghul itself, but it acts as an amazing launchpad for some of Kyrgyzstan’s best adventure activities.

For those who are experienced in high-altitude trekking, a summit exertion of Peak Lenin is mayhap the most incredible chance inward the country.

This is 1 of the easiest 7000m+ peaks inward the world, as well as likewise an immense even out of fitness as well as stamina, no advanced mountaineering skills are required.

Don’t live lured into a faux sense of safety though – it is withal a really unsafe hike if y'all aren’t properly prepared! Consider going on a guided tour (you should already know if y'all think y'all could tackle this on your own).

Sary Moghul also acts as a keen base of operations for trekking inward the surrounding mountains, as well as organising Equus caballus riding adventures. Check alongside the CBT Guesthouse for routes, ideas as well as information.

Where To Stay In Sary Moghul

We stayed at the CBT Guesthouse as well as enjoyed it. It was the most expensive identify along our Pamir Highway route trip, but it was quite high quality.

For US$20 per mortal nosotros got a night’s accommodation, a large vegetarian dinner as well as a typical Pamiri breakfast (bread, jams, tea, etc).

We slept on a sparse mattress on the flooring alongside nearly xv other people inward the room. If y'all desire to campsite they also receive got places to pitch your tent.

Day 2 – Sary Moghul To Karakul

Morning came chop-chop as well as nosotros laid off alongside Mohammed towards the international border. Exiting Kyrgyz Republic was a uncomplicated affair, providing that the right ‘fees’ were paid to the officers.

Mohammed took our passports to live stamped out as well as returned happy, but alongside his wallet visibly lighter.

A 25km department of ‘no-man’s land’ separates Kyrgyz Republic as well as Tajikistan, as well as is the 2nd highest international border crossing inward the world. It is non uncommon to view cycle tourists camping ground inward this dead zone, unable to brand the crossing inward 1 day.

Entering Tajikistan was much the same. Our visas as well as exceptional GBAO permits were checked as well as Mohammed took aid of the legalities. When he returned he sighed. “Immigration, narcotics, medical, police, customs, they all desire bribes. You pay them money, no problem. You don’t pay, y'all hold off all twenty-four hours at the border.”

Seeing as nosotros were at in 1 lawsuit cleared to acquire inward Tajikistan, it was clear that Mohammed had paid the unofficial fees to brand our passage easier. We asked him much he paid. “Too much,” was his response.

The initiatory off hamlet nosotros reached inward Tajikistan was Karakul, named later on the sprawling lake on its edge. We chose Sadat’s Homestay to live our resting identify for the night.

With welcoming hosts, as well as exclusively $12 per mortal including a bed, lunch, dinner as well as breakfast, it was only splendid.

The hamlet was quieter than Sary Moghul, as well as later on walking along the lake’s shore nosotros institute ourselves at a decrepit prison, consummate alongside the rhythm of an sometime Russian tank close its perimeter.

Our grouping decided to interruption through a hole inward the combat to explore further. Suddenly a soldier called out as well as came sprinting over to halt us, Kalashnikov inward hand.

We stopped dead inward our tracks as well as slow showed him that nosotros were unarmed, as well as only curious tourists. Luckily he used his oral cavity rather than his gun to warn us that this was non genuinely an abandoned prison, but an active state of war machine base. We apologised as well as chop-chop returned to the village.

The argue the base of operations looked hence empty was because the soldiers were inward the town, playing volleyball alongside the villagers. We stopped to picket their game, made modest beak alongside the regular army as well as hence returned to Sadat’s Homestay for dinner as well as bed.

Things To Do In Karakul

Besides admiring the beautiful lake, at that spot isn’t genuinely a lot to practice inward Karakul. As mentioned nosotros tried to interruption into the prison, which turned out to live an active state of war machine base, hence nosotros don’t recommend that.

Simply walk around as well as savor the atmosphere of the village. It makes for some beautiful photos. Have a chat to the locals, as well as if you’re lucky y'all powerfulness fifty-fifty grab a volleyball match.

If you’re inward Karakul for longer y'all tin practice some hiking around the flats as well as upwardly to the mountains. Just brand certain y'all remain good away from the Chinese border, which is quite unopen to the village.

Where To Stay In Karakul

We stayed at Sadat’s Homestay, as well as it was absolutely brilliant! The lady running it, Sadat, is really welcoming as well as makes some delicious food. Look out for the bluish combat on the right manus side of the hamlet when looking at it from the road.

The cost was also the cheapest nosotros came across on the entire Pamir Highway – $12 per mortal for lunch, dinner as well as breakfast. We were the exclusively people at that spot as well as slept on the flooring side past times side to a wood-fired stove.

There are other options inward Karakul, as well as our driver tried to brand us remain at some other 1 for $15 a night. However nosotros got the feeling it was his friend’s identify as well as kept walking around, as well as were stoked that nosotros institute Sadat’s.

Day three – Karakul To Murghab

Snow.

That’s what nosotros awoke to on a chilly Midweek morning. Light at first, but shortly the snowflakes got heavier as well as began to coat the hamlet inward a brilliantly white layer.

It was exclusively the start of September, but already wintertime was coming fast inward the mountains.

We wandered around Karakul before breakfast, as well as life was continuing as usual. Ladies were collecting H2O from the well, kids were running off to schoolhouse as well as the men were getting ready to caput into the fields to tend for their livestock.

We said goodbye to our friendly hosts as well as laid off inward a blizzard towards the south. It was exclusively some other brusque drive to the region’s largest town, Murghab.

Anywhere else inward Blue Planet Murghab would live a blip on the map, but hither inward the GBAO it was the major merchandise as well as carry hub for the region.

Between Karakul as well as Murghab is the Akbaytal Pass, the highest betoken along the entire Pamir Highway. At 4655m to a higher identify body of body of water level, it’s non uncommon for people to experience giddy when climbing it.

Eventually arriving inward Murghab nosotros checked into the famous Pamir Hotel as well as treated ourselves to our initiatory off shower since leaving Osh.

The listing of attractions of things to view inward Murghab is express to the local bazaar, operating out of transportation containers, as well as the modest mosque.

Still, it was a dainty identify to wander, as well as later on a few hours nosotros institute ourselves dorsum at the hotel playing bill of fare games as well as sipping on Tajik beer.

Almost every other foreigner nosotros met was a cycle tourist, many who had ridden to Tajikistan from Eastern PRC or Western Europe, giving an thought of the type of adventurous souls y'all encounter on the Pamir Highway.

We met a immature Australian human being named Harley who had ridden is Suzuki dirt cycle all the way from his identify inward Queensland. Clearly Tajikistan is non somewhere y'all encounter those seeking a relaxing vacation.

Things To Do In Murghab

Walking around the container marketplace is mayhap the best thing to practice inward Murghab. You tin purchase exactly nearly anything y'all would demand there, from fresh vegetables to mobile phones as well as everything inward between.

If y'all caput out towards the dorsum of Murghab y'all tin detect a modest mosque. This is worth checking out as well. Otherwise exactly go your way through the streets hence brand the most of the comfortable accommodation dorsum at the Pamir Hotel.

Where To Stay In Murghab

The Pamir Hotel is on the primary route as well as is the largest accommodation inward town. It is also the initiatory off 1 to fill upwardly up, as it offers decent meals as well as the initiatory off hot showers out of Osh.

The cost was $25 per nighttime for a large room alongside shared bathroom. Naturally when nosotros arrived at that spot was no running water, hence the infinitesimal it turned on at that spot was a huge rush to confine inward the shower. But as promised, the H2O was hot!

There are other identify stays y'all tin detect on the outskirts of town. Stop past times the META purpose (similar to the CBT inward Kyrgyzstan) to detect out more.

Day 4 – Murghab To Bulunkul

The scenery exiting Murghab chop-chop changed to go rockier as well as to a greater extent than imposing. We beelined it for Bulunkul, which has the solemn reputation of existence Central Asia’s coldest town.

After Karakul’s snowfall exclusively 2 days earlier, nosotros feared the worst, but luckily for us the atmospheric condition was delightfully sunny.

Bulunkul could live considered less of a hamlet as well as to a greater extent than of a collection of mud-brick dwellings. It looked similar the laid of an armageddon movie.

Busted trailers as well as vehicles were dumped inward random places as well as mud brick homes were propped upwardly alongside random pieces of scrap metal.

Still alongside the snow-capped mountains inward the background it made for a stunning as well as intriguing scene.

We made our way to a homestay, cooked our ain luncheon as well as left Mohammed to potable tea alongside the describe of piece of work solid unit of measurement spell our grouping trekked upwardly a nearby loma to acquire a glimpse of Yashilkul Lake.

Reaching the top of the rising nosotros were met alongside Yashikul Lake’s turquoise beauty shimmering inward the daylight. H5N1 sign warned us that exceptional permits were required to trek whatever further, hence instead nosotros aimed our sights towards the closest peak.

20 minutes of scrambling brought us to the summit, as well as our efforts were rewarded alongside near-360 grade views of the entire valley. We snapped our pictures before escaping the air current as well as heading dorsum towards the village.

Yaks wandered around as well as kids played games. We soaked upwardly the atmosphere for a spell longer before retiring for the night.

Things To Do In Bulunkul

Definitely trek upwardly to the nearby Yashikul Lake as well as admire the immense beauty of the region. If y'all receive got permits y'all tin proceed trekking for days, as well as nosotros wishing nosotros had to a greater extent than fourth dimension to practice so.

Get upwardly for sunrise as well as grab the modest ponds as well as lakes perfectly withal on a calm morning.

Where To Stay In Bulunkul

We stayed at the primary homestay inward town. We can’t recall the squall of it, but it’s owned past times the guy inward accuse of the meteorological station inward town. Just aspect for the large atmospheric condition station on the roof. Your driver volition know it.

The cost was $15 per nighttime alongside dinner as well as breakfast included. The nutrient was superb, as well as the sleeping quarters were similar to everything else nosotros had encountered – a sparse mattress on the floor.

Day 5 – Bulunkul To Yamg

Our 4th twenty-four hours was destined to live the most spectacular of all. Here nosotros would leave of absence the M41 Pamir Highway as well as bring together the stretch of route that follows the Afghan border along the Wakhan Valley.

Before nosotros reached the safety command betoken nosotros spotted “Panorama Peak” on our left, a steep ridge that our cycling friend Nick has told us about. Mohammed parked the Pajero as well as left us to trek on our own.

It took almost 2 hours of an uphill battle to achieve the peak, the rocky terrain made fifty-fifty to a greater extent than unsafe alongside the altitude. At 4500m to a higher identify body of body of water even out exerting your torso at this elevation tin convey nearly lethal height sickness.

Our fitness levels were upwardly to the challenge, as well as nosotros managed to achieve the summit without incident.

The views nosotros gained were what people come upwardly to this part for. In the distance the infamous Hindu Kush, the “Killer of Hindus”, formed an impenetrable mountainous barrier throughout this unusual stretch of reason inward Afghanistan.

30km away was Pakistan, on the other side of this “corridor” that had been carved out past times the Soviet’s during The Great Game inward the early on 1900s.

The Hindu Kush has been the intrigue of keen explorers for centuries, as well as hither it was towering inward forepart of us.

The descent from Panorama Peak was quick as well as shortly nosotros were dorsum inward the Pajero as well as at the GBAO checkpoint.

At this betoken the Pamir River creeps into the scene, exclusively 10m broad at some points, forming the official border betwixt Tajikistan as well as Afghanistan.

We drove a few kilometres farther as well as were shortly next the meandering waterway for the residuum of the journey.

Mohammed parked his auto as well as allowed us to snap photos of Afghanistan. In the hills nosotros could view farmers as well as modest mud-brick houses, as well as two-humped Bactrian camels wandered along the banks of the river.

Afghanistan was hence close, tranquillity as well as picturesque. We asked Mohammed if nosotros could swim over to choose a photograph looking dorsum at Tajikistan. He shook his head. “Big problem for you.”

I looked around. “But at that spot is no 1 else here.”

He whispered, “The army. They are watching.” And alongside that grim warning, nosotros continued on our way.

For hours nosotros followed a apartment route inward the shadows of the Hindu Kush. The river gradually grew wider as well as to a greater extent than powerful as tributaries rushed inward from alpine glaciers.

The beauty nosotros encountered behind every rounded curvature took our breath away faster than the climb to Panorama Peak.

Soon the route climbed high into the mountains, next the contours of the cliffs. Any lapse inward concentration from Mohammed would receive got resulted inward us tumbling to a finally resting identify far below.

Luckily he remained attentive as well as cautious.

Dropping downwardly towards the town of Langar nosotros saw the lush farmland of the Wakhan Valley, stretching inward from hidden regions of Afghanistan.

Langar is identify to an ancient fort as well as megalithic petroglyphs, as well as its location could non live whatever to a greater extent than inspiring. After exploring the sights nosotros opted to brand the most of the daylight as well as motion onto the smaller hamlet of Yamg.

We stopped over inward Vrang to climb around the quarry-like stone walls as well as to explore 1 of the region’s most interesting sites*, a Buddhist shrine.

Here some immature boys approached us as well as bowed their heads inward a respectful way, miming that of Buddhist monks. We allowed them to choose us at that spot as well as were surprised when they ran off without squall for for money

Arriving belatedly into Yamg nighttime had already begun to fall, as well as Mohammed took us to Aydar’s Guesthouse. Aydar is the leader of the village, as well as spoke decent English.

His guesthouse felt less similar an authentic homestay as well as to a greater extent than similar a business, as well as nosotros were eager to motion on the side past times side day. In the morn nosotros walked around Yamg’s quaint streets as well as moved towards Yamchun, less than an lx minutes on.

*Our skillful friends Thomas as well as Veronika of late used this guide on their ain travels, as well as receive got reported that they were really underwhelmed alongside the Buddhist shrine. Perhaps nosotros may receive got been too generous alongside our appraisal of it.

Things To Do In Langar

There are countless things to practice inward Langar, as well as for most people this is why they halt upwardly spending the nighttime here. It also is a to a greater extent than logical spot to halt inward terms of fourth dimension spent on the road.

About 3km before Langar, brand certain y'all banking concern check out the Ratm Fort, an sometime relic from the Silk Road that has keen views over the Pamir River (now turning into the Panj River) as well as into Afghanistan.

You tin walk around past times the family’s describe of piece of work solid to acquire to it. Just brand certain y'all picket your basis when stepping unopen to the border within the fort – at that spot are enough of loose stones.

If petroglyphs are your thing hence climb into the hills to detect over 6000 of them. To acquire at that spot go to the school, follow the powerlines upwardly the loma towards the cemetery, hence hold going upwardly until y'all tin cross the modest stream.

There’s also some Islamic shrines scattered around the village. It genuinely is quite picturesque, as well as piece of cake to view why people remain here.

Things To Do In Yamg

There’s also quite a few cool things to practice inward Yamg. There is the Yamg Wakhani Museum, dedicated to local legend as well as Sufi mystic Mubarak-i Wakhani. You tin detect sometime musical instruments as well as relics of his life here.

Near the museum is a solar calendar as well. To live honest nosotros didn’t see whatever of these due to a bad sense of savor left past times our homestay possessor (who also happened to deal all the attractions inward town), hence nosotros only walked around the beautiful, buc0l1c village.

Where To Stay In Yamg

We stayed inward Aydar’s Guesthouse, but we don’t necessarily recommend it. It was overcrowded alongside grouping tours when nosotros arrived, as well as spell Aydar was grin when nosotros initiatory off got there, he made a large bargain nearly how nosotros were inconveniencing him past times coming hence belatedly as well as tried to accuse us $20 for a identify on the flooring there, alongside dinner as well as breakfast existence extra.

When nosotros asked for a cheaper cost he got aggressive, maxim that he had the best guesthouse inward town as well as that if nosotros didn’t similar it nosotros could leave. So nosotros grabbed Mohammed to leave, as well as Aydar dropped the cost to $15*.

During dinner Aydar’s boy gave us a really dainty as well as detailed explanation of Pamiri architecture, which was fascinating. He hence asked for coin for his explanation.

We refused, as well as he asked if we’d similar to remain later on dinner to picket a cultural trip the lite fantastic toe his sis was doing. Sure, nosotros replied. “It is exclusively a $10 donation to picket the dance,” was his response. We went to bed instead.

In all honesty the identify wasn’t bad – at that spot was a shower, the mattresses were comfortable as well as the nutrient was great. It exactly felt similar a money-grabbing describe of piece of work organisation trying to choose wages of tired travellers.

Others receive got stayed at that spot as well as enjoyed it though, hence mayhap nosotros exactly got them on a bad day.

*(We asked to pay inward Tajik Somoni, as well as he gave us the worst charge per unit of measurement ever. We hence said “fine, tin nosotros modify our USD into Tajik Som at your rate?” as well as he cracked it, demanding nosotros go to the marketplace to view what the rates were there. We exactly paid inward USD later on that.)

Why We Didn’t Stay In Langar

Our master copy innovation was to remain inward Langar, but nosotros decided to drive on. The argue existence that our cyclist friend Nick had caught the possessor of 1 guesthouse stealing coin out of his handbag at that spot (sorry can’t recall which one). When nosotros said this to Mohammed he agreed that the lady steals a lot from travellers at that guesthouse.

We hence asked if at that spot were whatever other homestays, as well as Mohammed recommended a dissimilar one, who was his friend. “But nutrient is really bad,” he said. “Everybody gets poisoned there.”

We tried to go to some other 1 but Mohammed kept talking them downwardly (we suspected it was because he didn’t acquire a committee or complimentary remain at those ones for bringing us), hence nosotros pushed on to Yamg.

Our friends receive got stayed inward Langar without problem, hence this is upwardly to y'all whether y'all desire to essay it or not. If nosotros were to practice this trip in 1 lawsuit again nosotros would choose the jeopardy as well as remain inward Langar for a night, or fifty-fifty two.

Day 6 – Yamg To Yamchun

Yamchun is famous for having the 2 most spectacular attractions along the whole Wakhan Corridor: The Yamchun Fort as well as the Babi Fatima Hot Springs.

The 2200-year-old Yamchun Fort sits precariously on the border of a crumbling mountain, offering mayhap the best views of anywhere encountered inward Tajikistan. Today the fort is left inward ruins, but its foundations as well as walls tin withal live admired.

Our grouping separated for the initiatory off fourth dimension inward v days, as well as institute our ain corner of the fort to seek solitude as well as reverberate on our surroundings.

Further upwardly the loma the Babi Fatima Hot Springs period of time into man-made pools, as well as the H2O is believed to boost fertility. Men as well as women are given separate pools to bathe in, as well as clothe are forbidden.

We paid our 10 Somoni ($1.25) each, stripped downwardly as well as joined the locals inward the steaming waters.

Clean as well as refreshed, nosotros drove slow downwardly the mount searching for some other homestay nosotros had heard nearly from other travellers.

Unsigned as well as hidden from view, the homestay took us over xxx minutes to find. But when nosotros did discovery it, nosotros were inward paradise.

It was mayhap the best instance of Pamiri mode decorations that nosotros had encountered, consummate alongside crimson carpets adorning the walls as well as a four-tiered skylight inward the centre.

A vegetable garden, fruit trees as well as sunflowers made upwardly the yard, alongside the gaps inward the leaves offering stupendous views over the Wakhan Valley. Our afternoon was spent playing bill of fare games as well as basking inward the sensational vistas.

Things To Do In Yamchun

Obviously the 2 primary things to practice inward Yamchun are the fort as well as the Babi Fatima Hot Springs.

The fort is a keen identify to wander for an lx minutes or so, as well as y'all tin grab some epic photos. Climb around, detect a shady spot as well as relax.

The Babi Fatima Hot Springs are as cool as well as brand for a relaxing session later on exploring the ruined fort. Men as well as women are separated, as well as clothe are non allowed (yep, fourth dimension to nude up).

The setting is genuinely nice, nudged upwardly against a stone overhand as well as filled inward alongside cement to block out the elements.

Where To Stay In Yamchun

We institute a discreet homestay on 1 of the switchbacks coming downwardly from the Yamchun Fort. It genuinely was difficult to find, as the route drops away steeply spell the describe of piece of work solid is upwardly on a loma slightly.

It was maybe the 4th or fifth switchback downwardly from the fort. It is on the left-hand side of the route if y'all are driving downhill.

The owners were amazingly friendly, as well as the describe of piece of work solid was gorgeous. We genuinely could receive got spent some other nighttime hither exactly to chill out, but decided to caput to Khorog instead.

It was $15 per mortal as well as included lunch, dinner as well as breakfast. The nutrient was impeccable!

Day 7 – Yamchun To Khorog

Leaving inward the morn was a reluctant endeavour, but it was fourth dimension to destination our Pamir Highway journey. We continued on the road, stopping at fundamental photograph opportunities, as well as at some other ancient fort.

At the town of Ishkashim nosotros passed the international border crossing into Afghanistan. Every Sat for years had seen a cross-border marketplace operating on a modest isle betwixt the 2 countries.

Normally it was the best chance for tourists to interact alongside Afghani sellers without entering the country.

Unfortunately for us the marketplace had been closed for half dozen weeks due to instability inward the region. The Taliban had been moving closer to the border, as well as were at in 1 lawsuit reportedly 20km from Ishkashim.

The gates were open, but no 1 was making the crossing.

We stopped past times at the Ishkashim Fort, some other Silk Road relic alongside a formidable location on the border of the Panj River.

With views over lush farmland as well as the high seat allowing a phenomenal sight of the natural border betwixt Transitional Islamic State of Afghanistan as well as Tajikistan, it may live 1 of the most unique spots along the Pamir Highway.

We snaked along the mountains before finally arriving inward Khorog, the biggest town nosotros had visited since Osh. Mohammed drove us to the Pamir Lodge where nosotros pitched our tents, cracked a beer as well as celebrated the halt of our Pamir Highway adventure.

Things To Do In Khorog

There are enough of things to practice inward Khorog, but to live honest the town’s primary appeal is to live used as a resting betoken before or later on a Pamir Highway route trip as well as to stock upwardly on supplies.

You tin choose a marshrutka out to some of the nearby villages, or banking concern check out the botanical gardens exactly exterior of town. There’s also a keen hike close Jisev alongside a long suspension span over the river.

Head to the PECTA office as well as inquire for things to practice inward Khorog.

Hot Tip: Eat at Dehli Dharba. It’s a keen Indian eating theatre alongside decent prices. Walk towards the river downwardly an alleyway when y'all hitting the MicroFinance Bank on the primary street.

Where To Stay In Khorog

Khorog has a lot of decent options of places to stay, but nosotros chose to remain at the most pop one: The Pamir Lodge.

It’s a fleck of a legend around the part for having the highest concentration of people to swap stores as well as advice with, as well as it’s a cool setup. It also has wifi.

It’s $9 per mortal for a individual room, or $5 to pitch your tent (either on the grass or on the timber deck). We spent 2 nights inward a individual room, hence jumped inward our tent for the side past times side few nights.

To acquire at that spot y'all plough upwardly the loma at the Afghan embassy. It’s a fiddling walk out of town, but non too bad. The manager also speaks decent English, as well as is a keen guy to chat to if y'all desire to move into Transitional Islamic State of Afghanistan or explore to a greater extent than of the region.

Extra Information For Travelling The Pamir Highway

Here’s a fleck of extra information to aid y'all innovation your adventure along the Pamir Highway.

Remember nosotros at in 1 lawsuit recommend making bookings through Visit Alay. You tin of course of study withal essay to organise this on your ain if you’d like.

Budget For The Pamir Highway

Exploring the Pamir Highway is non cheap. Homestays are, on average, higher than most places inward Central Asia due to the remoteness of them. Food is also to a greater extent than expensive.

Renting a 4×4 inward Osh is charged per kilometre. H5N1 touchstone charge per unit of measurement is $0.75 per kilometre, but this tin go upwardly or downwardly depending on the lineament of the driver, the reliability of the car, etc.

Expect to pass nearly $100 per twenty-four hours on auto rental. You also receive got to pay for the driver to render to his home. This is charged at nearly one-half the usual rate, but he volition choose the most direct way possible.

It’s also nearly $20 per twenty-four hours for the driver inward add-on to the auto rental.

Vehicles are best carve upwardly betwixt 4 people, to hold the costs down. Fuel is included inward the cost of auto rental.

Homestays make from $12-20 per person, per night, including meals. This is non luxury past times whatever means, but it is a keen experience staying alongside a describe of piece of work solid unit of measurement as well as learning nearly the Pamiri culture.

You volition also demand to purchase some nutrient supplies along the way for lunches as well as snacks. Bring some H2O too, although y'all tin fill upwardly up at streams along the Pamir Highway. We recommend having a SteriPEN or H2O filtration scheme of y'all practice this.

As a skillful justice await to pass betwixt $50 – $60 per person, per twenty-four hours on the Pamir Highway for a grouping of 4.

Exchanging Money On The Pamir Highway

We recommend travelling alongside novel USD notes, ranging from $5 upwardly to $100. All homestays volition choose USD as payment.

We also propose exchanging some of your USD for Tajik Somoni hence y'all tin brand smaller purchases inward the markets. You tin practice this at the banking concern inward Murghab or Khorog.

There are NO ATMs betwixt Osh as well as Khorog. Bring all the cash y'all demand alongside you.

Camping Along The Pamir Highway

There is no work alongside camping ground along the Pamir Highway, as long as y'all choose precautions as well as don’t pitch your tent close anyone’s belongings without squall for them permission.

If y'all are riding a cycle or self-driving y'all tin acquire off the primary roads as well as detect a tranquillity patch out of the way. If you’re hitchhiking exactly practice the same as well as walk upwardly into the mountains or out of sight of villages. Another alternative is to inquire the owners of the diverse homestays if y'all tin pitch your tent inward their yard.

Keep inward hear that the temperatures practice plummet at night, fifty-fifty inward summer. Make certain y'all receive got a warm sleeping bag, decent tent as well as thermals!

Extending Your Pamir Highway Adventure

If you’re looking to add together a few extra days along the Pamir Highway y'all tin quite easily pass upwardly to 2 weeks (or more) doing it.

Sary Moghul as well as Bulunkul receive got some keen options for multi-day treks. In Bulunkul these may demand to live planned inward advance hence y'all tin acquire the permits.

We also just discovered that it’s possible to drive or hike upwardly to Lake Zorkul, which is the start of the powerful Pamir River. It’s at the northern halt of the Wakhan Corridor on the border of Tajikistan as well as Afghanistan.

It’s inward a nature reserve as well as nosotros receive got no thought if permits are required to see it. Ask at Osh Guesthouse or at the GBAO checkpoint where M41 heads to Khorog as well as y'all move on to the Wakhan Valley.

Pamir Highway From Dushanbe Or Khorog

Another alternative is to practice the Pamir Highway trip inward reverse, starting inward either Dushanbe or Khorog. If y'all go from Dushanbe nosotros recommend breaking it upwardly into 2 days, as it’s a long, long, bumpy trip. There’s also meant to live some dainty hiking opportunities along the way.

If y'all desire to leave of absence from Khorog y'all tin organise everything at the PECTA office. Go to the Pamir Lodge to detect people to carve upwardly the costs if y'all are renting a 4×4.

Have y'all travelled on the Pamir Highway? Let us know what your experiences as well as tips are below!